I think that I expected that they might save the best for last, but Seymour Island was probably my favorite island of the whole bunch. Maybe it was just the thrill of seeing all the cool Galapagos creatures for the first time, the beautiful waves, or the sunset, but I loved Seymour Island.

Landings on islands in the Galapagos are tightly controlled. There are only so many people allowed on an island at one time (the exception being the inhabited islands); we were never on an island with another group for more than say 15 minutes. If we were landing, another group was just finishing. If we were leaving, usually another group was just landing. Props to their pretty fantastic conservation/tourism plans–it makes the islands that much more special.

We had 12 people in our group, with 2 guides. Usually one guide went ahead and one behind, and you could wander between them or with one of them. This allowed you to ask plenty of questions, hear lots of information, but also enjoy the spectacular animals and scenery on your own when and if you wanted. I can’t say enough about our guides or that set up–it was absolutely wonderful.

Back to Seymour Island…Seymour Island has an incredibly large population of Blue Footed Boobies. These birds…these birds are simply my favorite. They are peculiar, full of curious expressions, adorable behaviors, and, well have BLUE feet. In addition to Blue Footed Boobies, we saw lots of little and big sea lions (adorable, though I find they don’t photograph as well as they appear in person; this little fella was waiting for us right when we landed, basking in the afternoon sun), land iguanas, and Frigatebirds.

Land iguanas are often bright colored and extremely, extremely large. They are pretty nonplussed by activity, and more concerned about eating. And eating some more. But don’t let them fool you, they actually can run super quick when inspired!

Frigatebirds are another strange, strange bird. There are two types–the Magnificent Frigatebird and the Great Frigatebird. The Magnificent Frigate has more metallic, purple plumage, and the Great Frigatebird’s plumage is more greenish. They are very, very difficult to tell apart. They have pouches under their necks that they can inflate (and deflate) to attract mates. These pouches take about 15 minutes or so to inflate, and look like they could be popped like a balloon. They also have super weird feathers on the side that kind of creep me out–they look like feathers on an arrow, sharp and hard.

We saw the mating rituals of both the Frigatebirds and the Blue Footed Boobies on Seymour Island, which was fantastic. We watched the birds until we were forced off the island at sunset, as people aren’t allowed on the islands after dark. They have such fascinating behavior.

Next up? Isla San Cristobal, and tales of Heather’s seasickness. And don’t worry, the Blue Footed Boobies (and my 200 pictures of a single bird) deserve a post all of their own too!

Fortunately for me, it was only once, and we were on open ocean. I somehow held it together otherwise.

The British Virgin Islands are beautiful–and it’s fun to be able to see them by boat. We stopped at all of the favorite places, including Jost van Dyke, Anegada, The Baths, Virgin Gorda, and Tortola. Plus smaller islands I am most certainly missing. The weather was great, the food was delicious, and the snorkeling was fantastic. The Baths had the most picturesque snorkeling (sadly, I was lacking an underwater camera at the time) and we saw a turtle when we were at Anegada. Every now and then we’d just pull up to a tiny island and hop off to snorkel.

It was the first time I’d eaten conch fritters, decided I wasn’t a fan of barracudas under the boat, and figured out that showering in the cabin bathrooms is pretty much impossible.

Of course we had to stop at the Willy T’s, the infamous ship/bar near Norman Island. Sad but true story: you used to be able to jump off the bow (probably 15-20 feet) into the water naked for a free t-shirt. About 2 months before we got there, someone died…so they abandoned the practice.  T-shirts were only up for purchase.  I wore my Willy T’s shirt until it wore out, and I was pretty shocked by the number of times in Washington DC I got asked if I had earned my shirt! Particularly in line at Whole Foods…

It seems like so long ago–and indeed, it actually was 9 years ago. So here are some great photos overlooking the beautiful Caribbean.

Instagram is still the most confusing of the three.

So let’s get down to the obligatory stats for 2015, in descending order:

Miles Flown
32086 (wow, lower than I expected but I guess Central America is closer than Asia)

Number of Nights Spent in Hotels/Lodges
33

Number of Flight Legs
26

Number of Missed Work Days
25 (I had a lot of comp time…I took maybe half of these days off work)

Number of Nights Dog Spent in Kennel
18 (sorry Toasty…we’ll do better in 2016)

Airlines Flown
6 (American, British Airways, United, Jet Blue, SafariLink, TACA)

Number of Days Pup Enjoyed with Dogsitter Extraordinaire
5

States Visited (> 2 Days)
5 (Virginia, New York, New Jersey, Illinois, Florida)

Countries Visited
4 (Costa Rica, Jamaica, Kenya, Peru)

Number of Legs in Business Class
4

Number of Loyalty Statuses Held
3 (by year end: United, Marriott, Starwood)

Number of Times I Traveled Without DH
2

Number of Flight Delays > 1hr
2 (at DCA)

Number of Free Hotel or Flight Upgrades
1 (Hotel)

Number of Barf Bags Used
0 (This, for me, is shocking)

Number of Forced Bag Checks
0

Here’s to an exciting 2016! I’m going back (hopefully) to more routine posting after the holiday season is over. And let’s leave 2015 with some of my favorite memories (not favorite photos–choosing those is way too hard).

Parrots were always the exception. Penguins are pretty cool too. But all the other bajillion species? Meh.

But then something embarrassing happened on my first safari to Tanzania…I call the Lilac Breasted Roller my gateway bird, because that’s exactly what it was. It was the bird that was pretty enough to make me interested in other birds that didn’t start with a p (parrots and penguins). It was the bird that convinced me that birds deserved another chance. It was the bird that made me stop in the bird section in my Wildlife of East Africa book, and actual look at the photos instead of skipping the pages entirely.

I guess I like birds now? After so many years it’s hard to write. I like birds.

So in an ode to the animals I now find interesting, I decided to post some of my very favorite bird pictures from Kenya. Because these birds are interesting, incredible, intricate, and exciting.  They are all the reasons why I gave birds another chance.

The Crested Crane (Grey Crowned Crane)

We saw so many of these birds in Kenya. They also happen to be the national bird of Uganda. They are almost always found in pairs.

The Egyptian Goose

Regal, and always look much cleaner than the ducks I had when I was growing up.

The African Fish Eagle

One of multiple eagles we were fortunate enough to see–looks quite similar to a bald eagle. And equally large.

The Superb Starling

Superbly common, but no less pretty. This bird evaded any flying picture that dear husband was trying to capture the entire trip. Pretty impressive, for a bird.

The Lilac Breasted Roller

I’d tweet at this bird like Tweety Bird…it’s a pweettyy little bird. Ok, so not funny. But LOOK at this bird!! No wonder it was my gateway bird.

This is but just a part of all the different species; we also spotted a Pygmy Kingfisher, the infamously large Secretary Bird, a vulture (and a dead vulture), an African Darter, a Sacred Ibis, a Black-Winged Kite, and many more. In fact, I may need to do Kenya birds, part 2. Who ever thought I’d be doing multiple blog posts on birds. I certainly would have laughed.

But I still hate binoculars. They make me dizzy. So you can’t call me a birdwatcher just yet….

Oh, and snakes. The only time someone we were with saw a black mamba was in Uganda, so no worries. Heh.

Not only is Namibia visitor-friendly, its gorgeous and unlike anywhere I’ve ever been. I’ve already posted photos of the Skeleton Coast and the Caprivi Strip, but one of the biggest you-just-can’t-miss-it spots in Namibia is Deadvlei (the salt pan with the infamous dead trees) and Sossusvlei (the general area with the dunes). I think most people have seen photos of these iconic locations, but visiting them and hiking the sand dunes is really a ton of fun and one of the biggest reasons we headed to Namibia.

A word of serious advice–start early. It may seems so cool, but it gets very very hot when the sun comes up.  Especially if you are planning to hike up any of the dunes. Which of course you should! The sand on one side of the dune, in the shade, will be freezing to the touch. The sand on the other side of the dune, in the sun, will be burning to the touch. And take water. Obviously. I think that goes without saying when sand dunes are involved, no?

The white salt pan (or ecru, perhaps), the rust colored sand, and the blue sky=perfect contrasts.

Have you been to Namibia? What did you think of Sossusvlei?

Besides these problems, the Canon Powershot was/is amazing–I love it dearly and it was the perfect step up from a normal point and shoot as it allowed me to play with shutter speed and aperture in a non-frightening way.  Don’t worry, it became my husband’s camera, as he was still using a point and shoot, and his 1500 photos of our 10 days in Kenya suggest, to me, that he was grateful for the upgrade.

So I started looking for a decent body–not quite the lowest entry level, but definitely not something that expensive. I did consider a mirrorless option, but those with good reviews were already running $700+, and I wasn’t ready to spend that on something that I needed to learn how to use. I’m sort of partial to Canon, mainly because I’m familiar with their setup and when I knew I had SO much to learn about using a DSLR, also learning all new menu functions/controls was not something I wanted to do. I have a stubborn opposition to user manuals/instruction books for all they are worth and I don’t think I’ve ever read one successfully in my life.

After much debate and deliberation, I ended up with an advanced entry level DSLR, the Canon EOS Rebel SL1 Digital SLR. This wasn’t a decision I took lightly–while I buy things like clothes, shoes, and bags, with minimal debate–I have a really hard time buying electronics.To say I “know how” to use this camera and all its functions is probably overstating my skills. But I have definitely enjoyed playing and learning.

Here’s what I think so far:

Prettiness

Never said I wasn’t vain…check out this puppy…it’s WHITE. And it is SO pretty. I’ve gotten so many compliments on my white camera, and I love that it’s different. No, no, no, I didn’t buy it just because it was white, but it is pretty exciting. My macro lens it came with is also white, just to add to the fun.

Quality

I can say, for reproductions, the quality and resolution of photos from this camera are significantly improved even when shooting in JPEG and not RAW. I also think it takes better photos in low light situations. Obviously, and to my delight, it also takes amazing macros with my 18-55mm lens. I also ordered a 55-250mm lens. Both have image stabilization, and have been really fantastic so far. I do miss the crazy digital zoom power of the Powershot, but a telephoto lens just is NOT in the cards!

Ease of Use

While I know I’m not getting all I could be out of this camera, it is not significantly more difficult to use than my old Powershot on manual settings. And it has a nifty spifty touchscreen which can be fun for swiping through photos or a quick and easy auto-focus.

Ergonomics

Critically important for packing, this thing is LIGHT. So much lighter than my old camera, and the one of or the smallest DSLR on the market according to the specs at purchase, at only .9 lbs. This was a huge draw for me, as I use it mostly for trips. It fits into little purses and even with 2 lenses, it’s easy to throw into one of my carry-on personal items (just reviewed last week).

Verdict (So Far)

While I still have so much to learn about photography, using a DSLR, photo editing (and shooting in RAW), I am really enjoying my new DSLR and don’t regret the purchase one bit.  Hopefully as the summer comes to an end, I’ll have more time to continue learning how to use it better. But as for a step up from the Powershot, it’s been a fantastic choice.

Photos courtesy of my mother (aka dogsitter extraordinaire) since I can’t take pictures of myself taking photos (she uses a Canon Powershot, too, FWIW).

Except this year. When it didn’t. Because of the rains, the animals hadn’t felt the need to move yet and we could see them through binoculars (herds of them) on the other side of the Kenyan border, making their way from the Tanzanian Serengeti into the Masai Mara. We were just days off.

There is both an upside and a downside to these events. On the upside, the Mara is simply beautiful when empty. Vast, expansive, and incredible. There aren’t herds of vehicles as well as animals (though there are definitely some). And we saw lots of amazing Hartebeest and Topi (and babies), both of which I love. On the downside, it is truly empty. And it’s enormous. With more drivers in the Mara, companies will communicate about where to find things, like rhinos and such, but without more communication, it’s possible to drive forever and not see much.

Expansive Plains & Topi!

Because it’s the Mara, when you don’t see the migration, I think you get the advantage of enjoying the flora, the fauna, and a lot of other things that you’d probably just drive by quickly to see if you could see a river crossing during the high season. For example, we saw lions mating (totally bizarre and curious mating patterns that I didn’t know about), my husband tried literally for an hour to get a picture of superb starling that buzzed near his head and taunted his photographic skills, watched lots of Agama lizards, and I could stare at baby Hartebeest all day long. Who knew antelope could be so adorable?!

I Think Lion Mating Rituals Might Deserve Their Own Post…

Tell Me These Little Ones Aren’t Just Perfect

The Male Agama Lizard Strikes a Pose

It’s not as if you can control when the migration happens, and travel plans set months in advance aren’t flexible to last minute change (a downside of being a part-time traveler, I’d guess). I would definitely go back and spend some time in a mobile Mara camp (Leleshwa, where we stayed, has a mobile camp during the migration that I’d love to return to!). But that’s not to say the Mara wasn’t incredible anyway. It was. And I don’t regret going to the Mara when we did, at all.

Amboseli spoiled us a bit, as we were not expecting to see as much as we did. Including some dik-diks, which were totally unexpected but very much appreciated!

Interestingly, Tortilis Camp does have an electric fence surrounding it. It’s the first time I’ve seen a fenced camp in Africa–usually you are escorted back to your tent after dark with a guard. I’m not one of those people who is scared that something is going to crawl into my tent…unless that something is a black mamba, in which case, the fence doesn’t do any good anyway! In large part I think this fence is also for their garden, as they grow much of their produce on site. I don’t imagine that keeping African animals (or any animals for that matter) out of a large garden is an easy task.

One of the benefits of the fencing is the population of dik-diks, which tend to stick around the camps knowing they are safer!  Ever shy and elusive, dik-iks aren’t spotted super frequently in the wild, and rarely long enough to get more than a glimpse. They are the most adorable little animals, and ever since our first trip to Tanzania, I wanted to see more dik-diks. Well, these little creatures were everywhere. They liked to go under our tent, actually, and dear husband got some very adorable pictures of them.

Look at Those Giant Eyes and Huge Ears! My Favorite Deer

Obviously any trip to Africa would not be complete without giraffes. I had forgotten that giraffes do not have vocal cords! Yet another animal that is so much fun to watch stride, in huge steps, along the African savanna.

I don’t know why I try to describe these animals sometimes, pictures are much, much better than words.

Now, I will readily admit that sundowners happen to be one of–or maybe my most–favored activity on safari. Actually, probably in life. I mean, I love Tusker (or other local beer for that matter). I love watching animals. And I’ve even learned after 30 years to enjoy watching the sunset (only in Africa, though. I’m not THAT old yet). Could you ever get tired of this view?

DH Was Too Sick to Make Fun of My Cactus Hat

Mom (AKA The Enabler), Me, and DH Enjoying Sundowners.

And Tortilis camp is great at sundowners, as most camps are. Some appetizers, enough Tusker for all, and chairs for the view. Unfortunately, dear husband also got sick that day, so he had to stick to Fanta, no food, and obviously was not quite enjoying himself! If you know Jeff, you know any day he passes on food and beer is not a good day. I’m happy to say he had plenty of sundowners at Leleshwa, the next camp, to make up for it.

All in all, Amboseli was an excellent choice (and there is always Tsavo for the next trip!) and Tortilis was a great starting point for our trip to Kenya. It’s a solid selection for accommodation, with decent food (much grown there and fresh made pasta), a great staff, clean and upkept tents, and a fantastic location. Definitely plenty of luxury, and there are villas with private plunge pools if that’s your style (no, we didn’t stay in those).

Amboseli,  while small, certainly packed a large punch of wildlife and was most definitely worth the 3-night stay.

Cheetahs and lions, in particular.

It is SO much fun just to sit and watch the cats interact. And we did a lot of it. We were fortunate enough to see some large cubs playing with a dead bird, as well as small cheetah cubs following mom’s every instruction, while also sneaking up and tussling with one another.

I Get the Stick, You Get the Feather

But That’s MY Feather

Sharing Stalking Responsibilities

One Day I Will Use These Gigantic Hind Paws

It’s hard to explain to someone who hasn’t been to Africa what it’s like to see the animals in their natural environment, acting, essentially, like you aren’t there. It’s one of my favorite experiences, pretty much ever. I can’t really ever see it getting old. It often makes me wish I had decided to do field research on mammals of some sort–though I realize that when you try to make play into work, it isn’t always as fun as you think!

In addition to cats, I really enjoyed watching the bird-life, particularly the crested or crowned cranes. They are simply stunning and just a bit odd looking. And of course the lilac breasted-roller. I like to call this a gateway bird, as for me, it was the first bird the perked my interest in watching birds. For the first time, we saw a pygmy kingfisher, though those little birds are often too quick to get a good shot of unless you are ready and waiting! They are bright and darling.

Beautiful!

Everyone Needs a Gateway Bird. This Was Mine.

SO many elephants, including really tiny babies. We watched babies playing with one another–including one little one causing trouble, and then running quickly behind his mother to avoid any payback! We also enjoyed watching two elephants have a stand-off for nearly 45 minutes. While you see elephants more frequently than the cats, watching them doesn’t get boring either!

Our home base in Amboseli was Tortilis Camp, which is set just a 10-15 minute drive from Amboseli and about a 30 min drive from the airstrip. Tortilis is small, but not tiny–it’s in between one of the massive lodges and the much more intimate tented camps. The tents are permanent, but still canvas. Nicely sized, plenty of hot water, with a great porch. The lodge area is quite large, with plenty of room to spread out and enjoy the view of the water hole. In addition, while it was too chilly for us, Tortilis does have a nice pool (with a bar!) that would be inviting during the summer months for sure.

Our guide at Tortilis, LeParis (like the city, he says), was extremely knowledgeable about all things African wildlife. No matter how many times we go on safari, there is always something new to learn. He was also excellent at spotting things way off in the distance, positioned the vehicle so we had the best view, and was just very accommodating. While we didn’t pay extra for exclusive use of the vehicle/guide, that was a big perk of not being there during high season–we had Paris, and the vehicle, to ourselves.

Certainly our first few days in Kenya were memorable–more on Amboseli and Tortilis in Part 2, coming soon!

While I feel like I need to catch up on some sleep after all the early morning game drives, I’m so thankful that I had yet another opportunity to go on safari.  Watching giraffes amble across the grasslands, seeing lion cubs play with a dead bird…nothing on safari ever stays the same. You never know what you’ll see that morning, that evening, and it’s always something exciting.

Tourism in Kenya remains significantly down due to the travel warnings in both the United States and United Kingdom (though the UK just lifted their warning to Mombasa). This is the beginning of their high season, and many lodges are still operating well under capacity.  While each person obviously needs to weigh their own risk of traveling, I would point out that the national parks, including Tsavo, Amboseli, and the Masai Mara have been and remain problem-free.  Visitor dollars are critical to support conservation efforts as well as local economies, so I hope that people will still consider Kenya as a destination, just avoiding the north-eastern border areas near Somalia. We also had a wonderful afternoon/evening in Nairobi (minus the ridiculous traffic), and I can honestly say that having more time there would have been fine–there is so much to see and do.

I’ll have lots of forthcoming posts about our Kenya trip, but both our stays at Tortilis Camp in Amboseli and Leleshwa in the Siana conservancy near the Mara were fantastic.

But let’s start with some photos…Africa, I’m still in love. Kenya, you were so much fun. And British Airways, you didn’t lose my luggage so I have officially ended my longstanding dislike of you.